It'll be with great sadness that we depart Tanzania. Hard work, new friends, combined with enormous melancholy for those we had to say goodbye to... have all led to tears. Nothing has had time to sink in - but everyone knows we've shared an quite extraordinary experience and we'll be talking about it forever. Asante.

update 0845 Nairobi:
Good progress so far... Flight delayed by 40 minutes... looking forward to getting back home.

... "Today is the day. Anyone who say's it's tomorrow is a liar" ...

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The moment we'd all been waiting for. Months of planning, hours of fund raising from the entire community... all came together in one moment...

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Sarah and Daisy write:
Nothing could prepare us for the teaching experience at Mwereni Primary School. Arriving at the school and immediately heading into the classroom we had to adjust quickly to the size of the classes, there were often more than 50 children per class and two classes to teach per day. Keeping track of all the names was extremely hard. There was an obvious difficulty with the language barrier as English is their second language. Some students were more fluent than others and frequently acted as translators to us.

It was incredibly daunting teaching for the first time but we found the students eager to learn, friendly and responsive. Walking from classroom to classroom kids would walk up to us asking our names or how our day had been. By the time we reached our next class we would arrive with an entourage of kids of all ages wanting to join our class. What was most striking was that when their break arrived they would want to stay in the classroom to learn more, trying not to pick favourites was the hardest of all.

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Mc Clancy writes: Monday afternoon and the bus suddenly is filled with forty seven excited visually impaired children, going into Moshi, who are about to be fitted with new clothes. For the majority of these children they have never been to a shop to buy anything new let alone be fitted for clothing. Seldom do they get away from school on a bus trip and the excitement is palpable.

When we arrive in the town, one of the teachers tries different tailors to see which will give us the best price and then they are taken into the shop -eight of the children in order to cover all size options.

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They wait patiently and as the tailor calls them forward you can see the excitement in their faces. Meantime Russ is left on the bus in thirty degrees temperatures and texts me in the shop that some of the children need the toilet. I ask the tailor is there a café near by where we could take all the children for an ice cream or drink and am directed to a café which is suddenly taken over by our group and it has a toilet – much to the relief of Russ.

The children all order their drinks and are smiling and enjoying their day out – a real treat for them, and something that is taken for granted by us. We return on the bus with the children singing and with clothes that have made them feel special.

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Sam writes:
The students have all been working extremely hard in the classroom teaching and then in various jobs around the school. They have become a well oiled machine of grit and determination seeing all too clearly how much needs to be done in such a brief amount of time. Yesterday was particularly grueling with most students having a turn in the trench, digging down to one meter and half a meter in width. The task was made even more challenging by the oppressive heat, but the faces of the students observing kept them going as did the encouraging words of Mr Clarke who spent a lot of time leaning on his shovel in true foreman style!

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I was installing hooks for the mozzie nets with students in the dormitory whilst Russ and Ms Clancy were picking up all of the pipe work for the water project and haggling hard with Damas to get the best deals.

Mr Clarke took games in the afternoon with 90 students and 8 balls! Our students again shone, mostly with perspiration, and I think they are starting to realize how challenging teaching can be!

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full match report by Matthew

February 10th, 2008. Sunday – Match day. But this was no Ford Super Sunday Match, this was Tanzanian Massai football. The night before we had been given instructions to enjoy the match and have a little kick around, with intense focus on not injuring any players from either team. Although these instructions were adhered to for the most part, any ideas of a little kick around went out of the window from the first whistle. All of a sudden we Southbankers found ourselves in the middle of a massai village, on a dirt pitch, in the baking sun playing in a serious match of football.

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From the onset, it was clear that our only chance at victory was skill with the ball and knowledge of the game. We knew from second one that we were not going to be able to outlast the Massai in terms of Stamina. I had joked to Russ before the game that my playing time would be five minutes; once the game started I wondered if I would even make it that far.

The match started and we came under pressure quickly, it was seemingly one way traffic except for a few bright spots from Antonio and Elena who were patrolling the midfield and pulling out some tricks worthy of Match of the Day. The back four held well under the eye of Mike and the ever constant presence of our secret weapon/camera man Mr. Clarke; however, after a quarter of an hour the inevitable occurred as a long ball to the back post hung in the air and was smashed in by a massai striker, leading to pure jubilation form the Masai. 1-0 down.

The Southbank response to the goal was good as we continued to attempt to drive forward and pressure the massai defense. We began to get the ball down and play as Coach Clarke has always begged us to do. Antonio had now moved out to the left wing and Mr. Clarke had come onto the pitch with some much needed defensive aid pushing me into the middle of the pitch where I played alongside Russ. By this time Guy Fresher was in goal and he twice saved our team with fantastic saves as we desperately tried to reach half time only down 1-0. Unfortunately right at the death, the massai broke free and despite a save from Guy the rebound was slotted home. 2-0 down. Seconds later the whistle blew and halftime was upon us.

At the break we knew what was needed fresh legs and creativity, so we decided to go with our super sub Ms. Clancy on the right wing and we brought on Ms. Stone for center back. We also saw that we needed goals quickly so I was told to go up top and play striker. At the start of the half we started extremely brightly with Antonio prompting a fingertip save with a blistering shot from long range and we felt very good especially when Isaac came on after five minutes to play central midfield. We constantly pressured their left back, using Ms. Clancy on the right wing and she did brilliantly well to beat her man and cross. The cross was blocked but the whistle had gone for handball. Free kick Southbank, the chance we had been waiting for. Mr. Clarke and Antonio began clamoring for a chance to take it but there was no way. Only one person was having that free kick – Ms. Clancy! She whipped in a ball but it was well defended by the massai, who had begun to re claim control of the game. As the heat began to take its victims, the massai assault grew and I was only a matter of time before they broke down our back four of Mikaela, Maxine, Ellie B, Ms. Stone and Veronica in goal who had been keeping them at bay for far longer than anyone else had been able to. We began to rely on them as the rocks at the back, those are some top class defenders. Once the strikers were through the defense it was forgone conclusion. 3-0 down.

Once that goal went in it was clear that we were deflated and not even the play of Ghynwine or Isaac could save us as we continued to succumb to the heat. By this time the outcome of the match was decided it was only a matter of how many goals; however, Mr. Clarke, Isaac, Antonio and I were now intent on scoring at least one goal and with the support of Idan Yona and Guy who were playing on either wings we came close however, we left ourselves vulnerable to counter attacks and that is exactly what happened as the massai used their superior fitness to out run us and score again. 4-0 down. With only minutes remaining I gained a short second wind and took off down the right wing, as I beat one massai and then another, I laid the ball off to Isaac who slotted it back to me but sadly the finish was a tired one, which sailed high and wide prompting groans of disappointment from the team and Mr. Clarke’s question “Bernstein, is somebody injured?” From then forward we hit the post once and continued pressure including a run down the left form Russ, where according to Mr. Clarke he "put on the boosters" and made the Massai look like they were standing still; however, at the end we fell to another counter attack. 5-0 down.

Minutes later the final whistle blew. Final Score: Massai 5-0 Southbank. A sound beating but a most enjoyable match for all involved. We played well but were not on the same level fitness wise as the Massai Our team looks to rebuild its spirits in the upcoming week as we play in Mwereni. Until then all we can do is reminisce about what went wrong and what went right. One things for sure – Southbank will be back, whether it be with new players in many years time. We will look to avenge our loss and claim a victory next time around.

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Ida and Veronica write: Looking down on the crater from the Tanzanian hills was like something out of a movie, and yet it seemed so real. They say the crater used to be taller than Mt Kilimanjaro before it was formed by a natural disaster; it is truly a vision. Driving downwards, the clouds were below us and a massive field of green awaited us. We didn't expect the fauna to be so diverse, not knowing what lied ahead of us. The Crater looked so empty from above, but we found there just about any creature imaginable. The spectra ranged from flamingos, ostriches, baboons, monkeys, hippos, hyenas, zebras, wilder beasts, alive and dead elephants, warthogs, both female and male lions, and one very distinguished rhino in the distance. It was crazy to think that in the next generation might not ever have the opportunity to see a rhino, as it is on the road to extinction.

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It was a long drive back from Lake Manyara to the rim of the Ngorogoro crater. As we entered the National park we left the smooth tarmac and drove about 20 kilometres off-road - eventually rewarded by spectacular views into the crater. On arriving at our camp site, tents were set up and we quickly made use of the fading daylight to get set up for a night under canvas. And what a night it would be.
....
Shortly after dinner, the light faded and whilst it was still early, everyone quickly retired to their tents. We had been warned about the wildlife and had strict instructions to remove all food from our tents. However, the water buffalo standing next to the Ladies toilet didn't inspire any confidence in a quiet night. I managed to block out Mike's laughter by turning up my iPod, and a few minutes later the sound of Garrison Keiler narrating "Lake Wobigon" hypnotized me to sleep.

It must have been a couple of hours later when a deep rumbling sound echoed around the crater. At first I thought a plane was landing... but an enormous fork of lightening lit up the inside of the tent quickly followed by rain. And rain it did. Proper African rain. So loud against the canvas that conversation was impossible. We could make out the faint shriek, easily identified as Ms Stone, as the water infiltrated her tent. Chaos ensued as a storm of Biblical proportions saturated some tents and combined with a gusty wind, partially collapsed others. Some people ran for the 4x4's, others for the dinner huts. Those that ran to the toilets quickly ran back when they saw the wildlife that had moved in.

At about 0200 the sound of thunder slowly faded into the distance, the rain eased off and eventually after there was silence. This was quickly punctuated by hysterical laughter from Ms Clancy and Ms Stone and then sound of Caitlin singing very loudly in Spanish... (random?) much to everyones amusement. Not even this epic deluge seemed to dampen the spirits.

We woke at about 0530 in order to descend into the crater as the sun came up. The first thing Mr Clarke said to me was "did you hear the rain last night..." as if it might have been possible not too!

Luckily, I was on hand with a camera to record the moment as everyone emerged from their tents. Unfortunately, Eli and I were too startled to capture Maria's exit as she left her tent as though shot from a cannon... stumbling 5 yards and managing to stay upright. Those that were witness gave Maria a round of applause as, now completely awake, she could fully appreciate the funny side of the moment.

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Refreshed after a night at the lodge, today was to be our first day on Safari.

On hearing that there was rain at Ngorogoro, we changed our plans and headed instead for Lake Manyara. It's long drive from Moshi, through Arusha and on to Mto wa Mbe (translates as "River of Moquito's") although many people, still tired from the journey, manged to sleep.

Shortly before Karatu, we left the road to enter the National Park. After a few kilometers the trees gave way to open plains where there were large herds of Zebra and Water Buffalo. Over the next few hours we drove slowly, in convoy. When news of a sighting came over the radio, we made chase. Whilst watching the Hippos, Phyl caught site of 4 lionesses moving quickly over the plain. By the time we caught up with them they were lying down in the grass having aborted their attack. They soon got up and started to pace slowly forward. A few hundred yards ahead, a baby giraffe strolled into view and the lions froze like statues. As the Giraffe and her mother picked at leaves, the lions split into 2 groups and edged forward in a flanking maneuver. Hearts were in mouths. The Giraffes saw the lions in plenty of time and quickly disappeared in the bushes.

We left Manyara around 1600, apart from one of the vehicles... who's occupants spent 20 minutes watching what they thought might be a snake... turned out to be just a log...

"Human beings have a unique and distinctive smell."
"Hey - I just took a photo that looks like something from National Geographic!"

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"Nice boots Ellie"
"Get lost Kadj"

After almost 24 hours travelling, little sleep and no fresh air... The mood is sombre but remarkably good humored. We've been forced to separate into 2 groups. The advance party is already at the Lodge and everyone is looking forward to the reconciliation tonight!

... update (2000 local time...)
Everyone's now together at the Lodge, drinking Fanta and waiting for dinner. Tomorrow looks like a very early start to get to the Ngorongoro Crater.

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